Friday, August 27, 2010

Post Peru Blog - August 27, 2010

Hola Amigos,

We are now back from Peru. We returned just over two weeks ago. Here is a brief summary of the final weeks of our trip: The last two weeks of our time in Pisac were filled with more social gatherings, birthday parties and fun. We didn't get to the jungle because of a strike, but we did make it to Lake Titicaca where we spent some lovely days hiking and enjoying the rural village of Llachon the shores of the Capachica peninsula. Back in Pisac, after our land purchase was finalized, Steve moved into farming high gear, and spent a large portion of his time out at the chacra (the land we bought), preparing the peach trees for another season of production. He worked his tail off, digging, fertilizing and irrigating. Steve also contracted a guy to make adobe bricks and to fell two eucalyptus trees while we are up here so that we can begin construction next June on the land. We plan to renovate the existing adobe structure into a small house. Right before we left, we did our own version of the traditional Andean"pago a la tierra", the August ritual of giving thanks to the land, and literally "re-paying" the land in the spirit of "ayni", the concept of reciprocity that has sustained the Andean land and culture for thousands of years. Stay tuned for Peru Blog, stage 2 next summer!

So, then we returned via Lima and Newark, and we spent the first week in complete culture shock! Oh! The car-culture, the mini-malls, the million choices of breakfast cereal in the grocery stores, the unfriendliness, the wasted energy! All the yucky aspects of the American Dream! It all felt pretty unsettling, and it still does. In fact, I want to continue to be unsettled by the unsustainable aspects of the American life, and to not just slip into apathy.

But, we went to Mt. Rainier and hiked in the Olympics, and I reconnected to the beauty and majesty of this area. After all, summers in the Pacific Northwest are pretty amazing. And, of course, there are many wonderful people here. Since our return, River and Sage (and Steve) are binging on Legos. Late night Lego parties for the boys! The boys love being back in their forest backyard, and seeing their friends. We picked blueberries and I made peach jam. Our yard and garden have needed a lot of attention (the grass in the yard was up to our thighs and some weeds were up to Steve's head!), and Steve has stepped up to the plate weeding and setting it all in order again. We have seen some friends, and look forward to seeing more. We are still speaking a lot of Spanish to each other, and now it feels like a secret language.

So, we are back and we are re-adjusting. I don't want to fall back into my same life. Not that it was a bad life. But, we are changed, and we want to do some things differently. As I wrote in my last post, the kids are going to school. So, the past two weeks have been all about making that school choice. We thought we were going to do the Waldorf school because we loved being part of a Waldorf inspired school in Peru. Well, the Waldorf school here in Olympia is sweet and wonderful in many ways. But, we also checked out the dual language (Spanish-English) immersion school in Shelton (which as it turns out, is the same distance from our house as the Waldorf School). We didn't expect this to be a viable option for us, but it is, and it is the option we have chosen: Evergreen Elementary in Shelton. This will be a huge change as it is a bigger school, and is in the town just north of here. But, we are excited to continue to keep using our Spanish and to be immersed in a multicultural community. Since we plan to stay connected and return to Peru, this school offers us a way to stay geared up for future travel.

In addition to having time for my yoga studies and teaching, I will spend time this Fall exploring anew my skill set and talents in the area of bilingual education both for kids and adults, and Shelton will prove to be an interesting area for this.

Steve will be teaching Practicum in Sustainable Agriculture at Evergreen for the next two years. So, he will be well connected to the farm and close to our home farm. Steve and I have been musing on the fact that now we have not just one mini-farm, but two! A main priority for this year is to find others who are interested in helping us with our mini-farms both up here and in Peru. We hope to find some wonderful care-takers/renters to help out in both places to keep the dreams alive!

Thank you all, wonderful friends for reading our blog and sharing our enthusiasm! I conclude this blog period with Steve's and my guiding quote:

"Don't ask what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive, and go do it. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive." - Howard Thurman

To life, to love!

Annie

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

July 28 Peru Blog

July 28 2010, Peru Blog

Hola Amigos,

Well, I realize that it has been over a month since I updated this blog! A lot has happened since then!

We are still in Pisac. My parents joined us for the first two weeks of July. It was a total delight to spend time with them down here. We took them exploring all over the Sacred Valley, to some of the our favorite places and some new places as well. Our agenda consisted of doing a lot of hikes to ruin sites, highland communities as well as the small towns and markets. I bet Dar Dar and Stevo needed a vacation after our their vacation with us, as we worked hard! How wonderful it is to have kids and parents who love to hike. Sage and River are truly awesome hikers! I realize down here how much I am a mountain girl at heart, having grown up in Utah. The mountains around here lift my spirits and make my heart sing. We loved sharing our Pisac life with D and S: the school, the friends we have made, the town, etc. It was a fabulous time.

Well, as I have written before, my intention for myself and for my family as well was for all of us to be open to this experience of living in Peru and to be transformed by this experience. This has happened and is still happening on so many levels. 15 years ago when Steve and I spent nine months travelling in South America, we were enchanted (as we are now), and we felt very inspired (as do we now), and we made a strong intention to come back down here and to make something positive happen. Well, here we are and we are doing this, but it doesn’t stop here. As some of you may know, Steve and I have a quote that we try to live by. This quote is from Howard Thurman, mentor of Martin Luther King, Jr. I don’t have the exact quote with me, but this is basically it:

“Don’t ask what the world needs, ask what makes you come alive, and go do it. For what the world needs, is people who have come alive.”

So, that is just it. We feel so very “alive” down here. All through this experience, we have continued to ask ourselves what can we do to come back down here and stay here and start a project of some sort because we love it here. We love the area. We love the school that the kids are attending. We love the highland communities. We love the Pisac community that has been so gracious and open with us. We envision all sorts of positive future options: more study abroad opportunities for college students (Steve), a bio-diversity and eco-agricultural center (Steve), collaboration with the highlands communities and the local universities around themes of biodiversity (Steve) a Pisac yoga studio (Annie), adult education in ESL and/or basic literacy (Annie), work as a primary teacher at the Kusi Kawsay School (Annie) and more.

About two months ago, we visited a local farm, about 20 minutes walk from Pisac. A beautiful location, a farm set above the corn terraces with views of the Urubamba River, the Pisac ruins, and the sacred mountain Apu Linli. I nudged Steve and said, “Wow, Steve, this could be your dream farm!” It was so beautiful. Over our time here, we met a few people with property nearby. Just about 4 weeks ago, Steve was chatting with a neighbor Senor Hilario who owns a piece of property with peach trees right next to the large farm that we had visited. Senor Hilario knew of Steve’s farming background. Steve was telling him that we loved it here, and out of the blue, Senor Hilario told him that he was going to sell his property and asked if we were interested. So, we continued conversing about it, and lo and behold, we agreed to buy it, and now we are the owners of a beautiful farm with all the views described above and an easy walk from town! Yes, it is a little crazy, but hey, you get one chance in this body, so why not live your dream! The property has 400 peach trees and some other fruit trees, a very rustic home/shack and lots of possibilities. For this current year, Senor Hilario and his family will care for the trees and sell the fruit. In the future, we’ll see. We would like to build a house on the property and in time, spend more time down here and start up a project or two.

In these last two weeks, we have continued to build connections and friendships with the many wonderful people in this area. Pisac celebrated its biggest festival of the year. The Fiesta of the Mamacha Carmen was four days of non stop music, dance, and parties in the plaza and all over town. For me, the best part was the day of folkloric dances. There were 20 dances total, all held in the beautiful colonial plaza. The costumes were incredible! Since then, we have hosted two parties at our house with food, dancing, etc. The kids finally had their last day of school with celebrations in their classrooms. Now, Steve is taking a few days to help set up the peach trees for another year of fruit production: irrigation, fertilzation, etc. Since we agreed to buy the property, we are not doing the big trip we had planned out of this region; however, we still plan to do a shorter trip to the high jungle area this week and then a final week in Pisac to finish everything up and say our good-byes.

We will see how it all unfolds. We return to Olympia in just over two weeks. I expect that it will be both wonderful and also dis-orienting to return home. The kids have survived well for more than four months without Legos, but I’m sure they will be happy to see their Legos again! We look forward to seeing all of you friends and family of course! We look forward to blueberries! Before, I had thought that we would resume life in Olympia as it was before, but I know that it will not be the case. Some changes will be made. For one, we plan to have River and Sage in school. This will come as a surprise to some of you as I have been a dedicated home schooling and mostly at-home mom for almost a decade. But, the kids’ experience here at the Kusi Kawsay School has been so positive on so many levels, that we have decided to try out school in Olympia when we return. As I approach 40 (soon!), I am ready to move in new directions and begin working more. I plan to continue offering yoga classes, but I am also ready to re-engage with my prior skill set in the area of multi-cultural education. I don’t know how it will all unfold, but I am interested once again in using my skills in Spanish, ESL, adult education, and/or social development. Steve likewise has new directions to explore with his connections and interests down here. We hope to come down again next summer for a shorter time. So, we’ll see how it unfolds.

In the meantime, dear friends, thank you for reading our blog! We look forward to connecting with you. We will back in Olympia on August 11th!

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Solstice Peru Blog

June 22, Peru Blog

Happy Solstice, Amigos!

It has been almost three months since we arrived in Peru, and it’s been at least a couple of weeks since I’ve updated this blog. We’re still in Pisac. Our friends and Steve’s colleagues, Rachel and Paul and family left yesterday. We have a wonderful time sharing the Peru Experience with them, and we look forward to more adventures with them in the future. We plan to stay around here in Pisac until July 18, with some side trips with my parents, who will arrive in early July. After this, we plan to travel to Arequipa, Colca Canyon and the southern coast of Peru.

School continues to be fabulous for River and Sage. About a week ago, the classes made a huatia: an earthen oven for baking potatoes, the same type of feast we had for Steve’s 40th birthday last month. This is the typical time of the year for huatia, and it was fun: potatoes, cheese, aji (chile) sauce, and salad. Kids, parents and teachers enjoying the beautiful mountain air and eating! River and Sage’s Spanish is improving all the time. It is fun to see Sage muttering words in Spanish when he wakes up in the morning. River has awesome pronunciation and can easily converse and get around town. He particularly loves to go shopping all by himself. Pisac is the sort of small town that is totally safe and River is enjoying becoming more independent and going on errands for the family.

The longer we spend in this area, the more connections we make with interesting people. We have gotten to know Lourdes, the founding teacher and director of the Kusi Kawsay School, and her husband Martin. They are fascinating people with interesting life histories and passions. We really enjoy all of the teachers and volunteers, and are socializing more and more with them. The founding parents of the school are great. There was a group of musician brothers and a couple of other families who got together five years ago, looking for an alternative to the state schools. They wished for a school for their children that would support their values as well as the Andean cosmo-vision. This is how Kusi Kawsay began. They were fortunate to find Lourdes from Lima, a trained Waldorf teacher who was willing to move here and train local teachers in the Waldorf methodology. The result has been fabulous. The current school site is very new. In fact, this is the first year at this new location above Pisac. The buildings and infrastructure is still being constructed. Currently, there are three primary classrooms and a Kindergarten. Construction will soon begin on two more classrooms. We feel very fortunate to be able to contribute to the growth of this new school that offers a wonderful alternative for the families in this area. We are scheming how to come back and spend more time in this area.

Speaking of families in this area, I have to write a little bit about the Taray floods that took place in late February before we arrived in Peru. Taray is the community just outside Pisac. In late February, more than half of the town was swept away by the floods, precipitated by the unusually high rainfall. Several families associated with the school lost their homes and everything they owned in the flood. Now, that I have met these people, I am struck by this tragedy and how they are moving on with their lives. Two of the founding families’ homes were totally destroyed by the flood. The government has yet to promise to help restore the community, and these families are left with the uncertainty of not knowing if they should go back to their properties and re-build, or invest elsewhere. These are the lucky families who have the resources to actually have choices. Some families lost everything they had and have been living in a tent camp just down stream from town. One of the boys in River’s class lost absolutely everything. His family is basically renting a room on the other side of the river. Even more tragic is the little boy in Sage’s class who lost his mother in the flood. She and some other women has gone to clean out the drainage canal, and were swept away by the rising water and drowned!

I am struck by how life can be so beautiful and so violent, not just here but everywhere. We live in a world where bliss and suffering co-exist, and where wisdom alternates with ignorance. Perhaps it is more evident on the surface here than in our corner of the world. I am struck by the strength and fortitude of the people of this area. I feel fortunate here to see another way of living, another way of relating to the planet. Life is much more uncertain here, but that doesn’t stop people from creating beautiful lives. It is possible to enjoy life just as it is.

I want to tell you about one of my favorite people in town: Eduosia, the senora who sells chicken soup on the plaza three days a week. We eat her soup at least twice a week. The soup itself is wonderful: huge chunks of potato, chuno, yucca, carrot and cauliflower, not to mention the chicken (or hen) with fresh herbs and lime. But even more wonderful is Eduosia. She is the rare person who blesses everyone within whom she comes in contact. For each person, she has kind word, a loving look, and the gift of her presence. She is an example of someone who truly embodies compassion and love. She sells her soup to everyone: campesinos, market vendors, tourists, locals - all sorts. I asked her last week how her business is going. Does she sell out? She tells me that she sells out everyday. Her secret is that she sells to everyone. It is the same soup, but at different prices – sliding scale, supposedly according to how big of a piece of chicken is in the soup. You can get her soup for 3,5,7 or 8 soles. But, actually, every bowl of soup is enormous, and everyone gets a second helping (or sometimes even a third!)

We recently took a side trip to the mountain town of Lares 4 days. Lares lies in a mountain valley town about 3 hours from Pisac. To get there, you head down river from Pisac a half hour to the town of Calca. From Calca, we caught a bus to Lares. The one lane dirt road to Lares goes up and up and up the canyon from Calca to a pass of 15,000 feet with incredible views of nevados (snow capped mountain peaks). The land up there high is windswept and lonely, yet there are small stone homesteads the homes of people who have been living there for centuries. I am continually impressed by the hearty folk that can live at such altitudes, with their stone and thatched roofed homes, potato fields and animals. We saw lots of llamas, alpacas, mules and sheep up in that high country. After the pass, the road plunges downward to the deep valley of Lares. Lares itself is a sleepy town. There are a number of wonderful hiking/trekking options from Lares back down to various other towns in the Sacred Valley that we hope to check out one day. Lares is most well known for its aguas termomedicinales (thermal hot springs). There is a well laid out and maintained hot spring complex about a 20 minute walk from town, up the river. Needless to say, we spent much of our time in Lares at the hot springs. There are 5 good size pools of differing temperatures and a warm swimming pool. The steep canyon walls and the rushing stream below make it an incredible spot. There is camping available at the hot springs, so maybe next time, we’ll camp!

Yesterday was the Winter Solstice. It was also the anniversary of the town of Pisac. There were much festivities in the plaza, including a parade with all of the people from the local communities decked out in their beautiful costumes. Today there was a wonderful Solstice Celebration at the school. Friends of the parent association, fellow musicians and dancers from the region of Lake Titicaca, from La Paz, Bolivia and from the Peruvian jungle (Shapibo) came and shared dances and music with the school community. It was so beautiful and heart-warming that I thought my heart was going to burst! Pisac is a very special place! On Thursady, this region celebrates the most famous celebration in Cuzco, Inti Raymi, the Sun Festival which commemorates the ancient Sun ritual of the Incas, held at Winter Solstice. It is supposed to be spectacular, and also very crowded, but we plan to go and partake in the festivities!

Hasta luego!

Annie

Friday, June 4, 2010

Pisac School Parade for River and Sage, June 4, 2010

Hola Amigos,

Today River and Sage's school, Kusi Kawsay, participated in the Parade for the Day of the Environment, something like Earth Day, El Dia del Medio- Ambiente. Very sweet parade! River's class dressed up like trees, and Sage's class made fish to swim in stream and wore decorated flower costumes. I will post pictures! It was our version of the Procession of the Species that we missed in Oly, I guess! Other classes were dressed as flowers, as plants, as suns, etc. Very fun!

This school continues to be fabulous for the kids. I honestly wish we could stay for the rest of their school year. They are making great friends, and learning tons of Spanish. Our house has become the hot spot for playdates. Every day I drop the kids off, several kids ask if they can come play at our house in the afternoon.

What I love about the play down here is that it mostly doesn't require toys! For about the first two weeks of our trip, River and Sage couldn't stop talking about their lego sets, which we didn't bring along! After two weeks, they just stopped talking about all their toys at home. Instead, they began collecting empty plastic water bottles and turned them into swords, light sabers and bowling pins. They also make pretend stores now in the garden, using broken pottery shards for dishes and weeds for food. We have acquired some balls, and they play soccer or basketball at the sports park, which is nearby. They do art work. It is all so simple and doesn't require all of the toys that we are used to at home. The kids here have very few toys, and they are all very happy!

All is well for us down here. Life is pretty settled with the kids' school day, market days, domestic chores, etc. I have taken to washing our clothes by hand. Hey, I have the time! I'm not very good, nor do I like it, however... I am using the time that kids are in school to do my yoga asana and engage in my yoga studies, as well as shop, chat and such. It is pretty relaxed.

Last weekend was the Day of the Potato, El Dia de la Papa. We all went up to the highland community of Chawatire, one of the potato park communities where there was a big celebration. It was also the anniversary of the Potato Park. Many folks from the surrounding communities participated. There was dance with local costumes, music, poetry readings (mostly all in Quechua) and a fabulous feast. Steve and Rachel were considered dignitaries, so they had to sit in front and politely listen to the many speeches, while the rest of us snacked and ran around!

The quarter is now ending for Steve and Rachel. Their students will be presenting their learning in a symposium in Cuzco this weekend. Then, evaluations, and then.... Steve will be done! I think it has been a highly successful experience for the students, and we hope to be able to come down again as Steve hopes to repeat this course or do something similar. He has made so many contacts with the Potato Park project as well as the other bio-diversity and agricultural projects and regions. He recently spent two days in Quillabamba in the high jungle, where he toured the coffee plant and learned of other tropical agricultural projects in the area. We hope to return as a family to this region, which is below Machu Picchu later this month.

We have another full month here in Pisac in which the kids will attend school and we will make some side trips to other areas here in the Sacred Valley, do more hiking, etc. In early July, my parents are coming down for two weeks. We will do some touring and traveling with them in this region, and then leave the Sacred Valley to visit other regions of Peru before returning home in August. We still have over two months though... and I plan to enjoy every minute!

I promise that I will go through our pictures, select a few and post them very soon. You all have to understand that posting pictures is tedious and long with this slow internet connection. But, I wlil do it!

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

May 18, 2010 - Daily Life in Pisac

Hola queridos,

Here is an account of daily life for us and others in Pisac...

Pisac, as I have described before, is in the Sacred Valley with the River Vilcanota running alongside it. It is so beautiful here. There are mountains all around us. The Incas and their modern descendents believe the peaks (apus) to be Gods, and they mountains are venerated as an expression of Pacha Mama, Mother Earth.

Now most of the cornfields have been harvested and there are piles of golden corn cobs lying all along the valley floor. The corn will dry and then be de-grained and stored for the year. Other vegetables that have now been harvested in the valley are: quinoa, fava beans, and many fruits.
In the highlands, potatoes are now being harvested as well as more quinoa. Wheat and barley are still growing.

Pisac is famous for its artesanias (crafts) market. There are such beautiful things: ceramics, instruments, weavings and textiles, knitted alpaca sweaters, socks, hats and much more. The artisan vendors sell everyday, but the main market days are Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. On these days, f0lks come down from the highland communities above Pisac with their potatoes, vegetables, etc. There are also fruit vendors with fruit from the lower lands: papaya, bananas, watermelon, pineapple... I love the market!

These days, our kids are going to the Kusi Kawsay school from 8:30 a.m. to 1:10 p.m. Perfect! They both really love it, and are learning lots of Spanish as well as cursive (River) and vowels and consonants in Spanish (Sage). They do lots of singing and movement in Spanish and Quechua as well as handwork (knitting, crocheting and weaving). Recess is awesome. They play outside and climb around on big rocks and build houses out of weeds and sticks. I wish they could stay all year!

We have our favorite lunch spots. Lunch costs about $1.30 and you get a daily soup and a segundo (second course) which could be some sort of meat or noodle dish, rice, potatoes, maybe a salad, and a drink. We also have our favorite chicken soup vendor at the market. This senora is so wonderfully sweet and kind. She blesses all who come to her stand with her steaming hot soup filled with yuca, potatoes, cauliflower, carrot and chicken. Today is a chicken soup day for us as it is Tuesday - market day!

On Sunday, we caught a ride up to the highland Quechua communities above Pisac. Some of Steve´s students are doing home-stays there right now with Quechua families. We took the opportunity to check in on some of them and to take a fabulous hike around 3 of the high lakes up there. This is up at about 13,500 feet, a windswept and chilly place to live. Nonetheless, all around are homesteads with hearty Quechua folk with their stone corrals to keep out the wind and keep in the animals. There are alpacas, sheep and llamas. Lots of potato fields all over the place. It is incredible that they grow up so high! But, of course, this is where potatoes are from. Potatoes, olluco, and oca are the root crops of the high Andes. These days, folks are digging them up and storing them in their walled in homesteads. They are also freeze-drying and soaking and drying some varieties to make chuno and moraya, two types of dried potatoes products that are consumed all year in soups and stews. Sage and River are mighty hikers! I call it the alpaca training program, and those two make good little alpacas. They love to hike and be up in the mountains! How fortunate we are!

I love it down here, and it also is serving as a wonderful pause in my life. I find that being down here is erasing much of the daily grind. Life is much calmer. Family life is much more harmonious than in Olympia. I never have to drive or car-pool. The feeling as as if so much as been stripped away: my usual Olympia identity, my usual chores, etc. It is great, and also challening as I find myself, especially in meditation, sitting with the big questions of life: how do I best serve in this life? All of my past experiences and endeavors are coming up for me: my various living experiences abroad, my studies of Latin America, my years spent in bilingual education, my years spent studying and teaching yoga, parenting, education... All of these themes are dancing in my awareness awaiting to be sorted and contemplated. I am contemplating changes and how to integrate my many passions... My latest dream is to create a sliding scale yoga class in Oly with proceeds to benefit local and international programs and organizations, especially those aimed at sustainability, education, health, etc. I really feel the desire for yoga to accessible and a means for true change and transformation in the world. I want also be more a part of local and international efforts and projects, both for myself and my family. I welcome any of you readers´ideas related to this!

And, there is the parenting and homeschooling sadhana. Wow! River and Sage are in school, and it is pretty great for all of us. I wonder what that means for our future in Oly. Well, we´ll take each day as it comes and live it fully.

As for me, I am open and being transformed which were my main goals of this adventure. How wonderful to have the sustained time for my practice and study as well as for my contemplation of life as it has been, as it is and how it shall be. Wonderful!

Hasta luego!

Annie

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

May 12, 2010 - Steve's 40th Bday and our life in Pisac

Hola Amigos,

Saludos desde Pisac, our new home for two months. We have rented a spacious and comfortable house here in Pisac, the Sacred Valley of Peru, 40 minutes from Cuzco. We are sharing the house with Rachel and Paul's family. We have two spacious bedrooms, a living room, a big sun room, a bathroom, kitchen and a garden. The garden has pear trees, fig tree, an avocado tree, bougainvilla, call lillies, some vegies and herbs. The kids are delighted to have a space to call our own for a while, and so are we!

Steve turned 40 on Friday of last week. We celebrated on Saturday with a fabulous adventure party. The day began with a bus ride to Chinchero, a Quechua highland community where our friend Natalia's family lives. A group of Evergreen students joined us. We shared chocolate caliente and birthday cake in town, and then hiked up to the family's potato fields at 13,000 feet! The tradition this time of year, potato harvest, is for entire families to spend the harvest day, digging potatoes, and then building an earth oven and roasting potatoes and eating them right there in the field with aji (spicy chile sauce), cheese, chica (corn beer) and maybe pisac (liquor). It is Steve's kind of thing! So, we all harvested potatoes and ate potatoes and spend about 5 hours up there with incredible views of 20,000 foot snow capped peaks (apus) all around. Epic! We didn't get back to Pisac until 9:30 that evening. It was great fun!

This week, River and Sage started school here in Pisac. They will go to school for 7 weeks. My homeschooled kids are getting their first taste of full time school in Peru! The school is called Kasi Kawsay which means in Quechua: Live Happy. It is an alternative school founded by a small group of parents from this area who are looking for an alternative to the state schools. This school has a Waldorf pedagogy and funds from a Canadian Waldorf School in Nelson B.C. have helped make the school a reality. The land itself is incredible. The school sits above the town with a view of Pisac, the surrounding mountains and the Sacred Valley. The adobe classrooms are lovely and surround a courtyard area with several huge boulders which the kids play on at recess. Everything is open air and sweet. Lessons are taught in Spanish, and additional lessons are taught in Quechua and English. River and Sage are happy and challenged! There are two recesses where the kids run around outside, climbing on rocks and building forts.
Sage is learning his Spanish vowels and River is learning cursive. They both love the movement lessons. River is doing knitting too. They are both learning and using tons of Spanish, which is the main reason I wanted this for them! School is over at 1:30 which leaves us plenty of time for afternoon rest and recreation. I am super pleased!

Steve's students are beginning their 4 week independent projects. Some are continuing to study languages, others highlands agriculture, medicinal plans, weaving, bee-keeping, coffee growing, education, etc. All the projects are so cool - I'm excited for them! Steve has several field trips organized for them over the next few weeks as well as his own research and investigation with Rachel around their common questions of the links between language and agriculture in this region. I have been busy setting up the school situation for the kids, as well as the house, and doing my yoga studies and practice. I love meeting new people and sharing stories. The people of Pisac are lovely, and I'm enjoying myself!

Hasta luego!

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Cuzco update, May 1, 2010

Hola Amigos,


I tried to update my blog a couple of days ago, and for some reason, it was erased! So, I'll try again today. I have to admit that I am speaking so much Spanish these days, that the words don't flow as well in English...

We have been in Peru for nearly 6 weeks now, and in Cuzco for the better part of the month. We finished our last day of two weeks of volunteering with Aldea Yanapay http://www.aldeayanapay.org/. This past week, I spent in the younger kids' gameroom, playing puzzle, Uno, and board games with kids ages 4-7. Sage and Rebecca were in the room with me. After games, we played "store" and "restaurant" in the courtyard. River spend most of his time in the artroom, making paper mache projects. Every Friday, there is a show in which the kids display art projects, present new learning, sing songs, etc. All in all, the project was a lot of fun. I admire the aim and work of the project: to provide a warm, fun and educational opportunity for kids in Cuzco. The project teaches values such as tolerance, respect, and non-violence. Most of the volunteers are other travelers which makes for a worthwhile service experience. The greatest part for me has been to see my kids connecting with other kids in meaningful, fun ways in Spanish!

We just returned from visiting and dining with Natalia, the Quechua friend of Rachel's here in the Cuzco area. She has a 4 year old son who played with River, Sage, Rebecca and Arlo. Natalia and her husband Alcides treated us to a delicious stew and we brought chocolate cake! It is really nice to spend time in someone's home and really see how they live, their interests and values, etc. I look forward to more such experiences in the second half of our stay.

We have enjoyed city life in Cuzco: the beautiful plazas, cathedrals and churches, cobble-stone streets and Incan stonework. We are used to crowded streets, exhaust, colorful vendors and too many street dogs. We are at ease in a crowded bus and even with crazy taxi drivers. Nonetheless, we are ready for a more tranquil spot, so tomorrow we leave for Pisac. We successfully negotiated a house rental for our family and Rachel and Paul's family. It is a quiet, secure spot and we're looking forward to the amenities of a home compared to a travel hostal! River and Sage are going to go to the Pisac Waldorf School (in Spanish). They will spend their mornings there. It looks to be a great opportunity. This will be the first time River and Sage, who have been homeschooled, will go to school daily. I think it will be fun and will give them the chance to learn Spanish and meet other kids. We'll give a full report once it begins!

Those of you who know my passion for yoga may wonder if I'm connecting with other yogis on the trip or teaching any asana. Actually, I am simply enjoying doing my own practices and considering parenting and doing volunteer work my seva (service). It feels more like a time for personal practice (sadhana) and less a time for teaching. Perhaps this will change as time goes on...

What I really enjoy is connecting with other people and seeing life from their perspective. Life is much more simple here in so ways. Smaller homes, less possessions, more ease. Even in the busy city, it still seems that life is more relaxed here. I hope I can absorb this and keep some of this relaxed attitude when I return home. I love, for example, that my kids don't have their rooms full of toys, so that they make do and play with what is available, like empty water bottles (they can either become swords, or pins for bowling!). Kids simply play in the streets here with whatever they can dream up: hide and seek, rhyming games, maybe an impromptu soccer game. Many people live in homes with only a few rooms. For example, Natalia whose home we just visited, is only two rooms: one bedroom and a kitchen. The bathroom is outside. I also love that our family has only the clothes, books and possessions that we brought. It is easy to keep track of it all, and I'm not missing cleaning my house in Olympia or maintaining the car!

Of course, one could also glamorize this simplicity, and I don't mean to do that either. There is a lot of poverty here: poor living conditions, limited opportunities, poor hygiene, nutrition, etc. There is education and work to be done to improve this, of course. And, there are many opportunities to get involved in service work, education, and more. This next month, Steve and Rachel's students will begin their independent projects which can involve research, volunteer work or internships. Even though I can't be in all places at once, I find it exciting to learn about al their different projects. I look forward to becoming involved in some local projects and the school in Pisac.

More adventures ahead, amigos!

Hasta luego!

Friday, April 23, 2010

April 24, 2010 Cuzco, Peru

Saludos desde Cuzco!

We have now been in Peru a month! Time is flying! We have been back in Cuzco for over a week, and we'll be here for another 10 days or so. Steve's students are in language school and staying with families for the next two weeks. Our family and along with Rachel and Paul and their family are staying in Hostal Magico, a hostel which is part of a larger social project aimed at helping kids in this area. This hostel is equipped with a kitchen and other nice amenities (like computers and Wi Fi), and its proceeds go to fund the social project. The majority of other guests here are volunteering with the social project which is called Aldea Yanapay. Aldea Yanapay is a free after school program for kids ages 5-13. I am volunteering in the project this week and next, and River and Sage are participating. All in all, it is a bit chaotic, but fun! It takes me back to my days of working with youth programs as well as my years of working in bilingual education.

A typical afternoon at Aldea Yanapay is like this: Kids arrive at an unassuming doorway on a narrow street a block from our hostel, and they go through someone's yard and end up in a courtyard area with basic but colorfully decorated classrooms. A host of volunteers are there to greet them with hugs and kisses. Those who have homework or need tutoring help, go to the library, and others go to the art or game rooms. So far, I have been helping out in the homework room with the younger kids. River and Sage have been mainly doing art projects and games. After an hour or so of this, the entire group (nearly 60 kids) meet for a circle time and then go to groups to work on themes and performances. Each Friday (today), every group presents their work, art or performance in a Friday show. This week, each group has to create a Yanapay (means Helping in Quechua) song. I am with the 4 and 5 year old group, which reminds me a lot of my years teaching bilingual kindergarten. We'll see how our show goes this afternoon... ! At the end of the kids' time at Yanapay, each child gets a cup of milk-oatmeal drink before going home. It is a fun, and a fairly rustic experience, all in all. Bathrooms with faulty plumbing, etc. I wish I had brought some school supplies and books for the project, as the project really runs on a shoe-string budget, but the folks and children are resourceful, and it is a cheerful place. It is really great to see River and Sage interacting with other kids and learning more Spanish! This is what they say:

River - "At Yanapay in art class, I have been making a paper mache volcano and cutting out dinosaurs to put on it. It is fun!

Sage - "At Yananpay, I played store in Spanish! And legos! I am learning more Spanish!"

It is all fun, but downtown Cuzco where we are located is crowded and busy, and we are looking forward to moving to Pisac at the end of this month and renting a house there for the months of May and June. Pisac is 45 minutes away in the Sacred Valley, a place we have already visited. It will be a good central place for Steve to supervise and guide students both in Cuzco and elsewhere in the Valley. It is a much more peaceful place than Cuzco (although we have loved Cuzco!) We have been looking for a house in Pisac, and hope to settle on a place soon. We visited a Waldorf school there that looks to be a great place for River and Sage to spend some mornings.

River is learning typical Andean music from a very sweet older gentleman who we met at a Folkloric Dance performance. We will have a few lesson with him over the next couple of weeks until we go to Pisac. It is great to get familiar with the folkloric music!

I am enjoying having family time and helping out with the Yanapay project as well as doing my yoga practice and studies. I have to admit that living out of travel hostels is wearing on me a bit, especially with the whole family. I look forward to settling in and having a bit more of a sense of rhythm to our lives. Nonetheless, it is all a great adventure, and I'm totally grateful to be here!

More notes and photos on our journey soon!

Much love,

Annie

Monday, April 12, 2010

April 12 Ollantaytambo, Peru

Hola amigos,

I´m sitting in the internet center in Ollantaytambo, Peru. I am getting a fast connection, so it´s a good time to write another post!

We are in the Sacred Valley for the second time, this time on the Sacred Valley ruin tour with Steve and Rachel´s 37 Evergreen students. It is a great group of students and everyone is having a blast!

We all have the 10 day boleto turistico, or tourist ticket that is good for 16 ruin sites and museums in the Cuzco and Sacred Valley region. So, we have been visiting ruin sites and hiking around for several days now. I saw many of these sites 14 years ago, but motherhood must have erased them from memory because everything seems fresh and new again. This valley is incredible. It would take years and years to visit all of the ruin sites and hike all the trails!

Some of the highlights are Sacsayhuaman outside of Cuzco, a large ruin site that was thought to be a place of ceremony and ritual, the ruins outside of Pisac, a large complex, larger even than Machu Picchu with 3 separate ¨neighborhoods¨as well as a fine ceremonial complex, the ruins of Moray, a set of concentric circular terraces where agricultural tests were likely performed, and the Salineras, a series of salt pools where salt has been mined for thousands of years. Tomorrow, we will visit the main ruin site here in Ollanta, but the entire area is an archaeological site itself, and anywhere you walk, you stumble upon Incan stonework.

River and Sage are awesome hikers. Little chivitos, mountain goats! They are picking up more and more Spanish everyday. Life is mostly harmonious. I think they will both really enjoy the enrichment school in Cuzco which we will be trying out in a week or so, as they would both love to spend more time with kids their age. But, as long as we get lots of outside time - and there is plenty of that - we are all happy!

The weather has been amazing. Beautiful sunny days, cooling off in the late afternoon. Perfect for hiking. I had forgotten how much I love it down here... I could easily just stay and stay! We return to Cuzco in a couple of days and we´ll be settling down in the city for 3-4 weeks while Steve´s students are in language school, and then returning for another month in the valley, probably in the town of Pisac. I have been resourceful finding possible rental options for March and interesting educational options for the kids. We´ll see how it all pans out!

I´ll post again soon!

Hasta luego!

Annie

Monday, April 5, 2010

April 5, 2010 Cuzco, Peru

Hola Amigos,

Greetings from Cuzco, Peru!

We arrived here by plane a week ago. Cuzco is the capital of the Inca Empire and now a thriving predominantly Quechua speaking city, with both ancient and modern attractions. Sitting at nearly 11,000 feet, it take some adjustment for those of us coming from sea level.

To avoid altitude sickness, we quickly descended several thousand feet to Sacred Valley, first to the town of Pisac at about 9,000 feet where we spent our first 3 nights and connected with Rachel and Paul and their kids, the other TESC family joining us on this adventure. River and Sage were happy to spend time with Rebecca and Arlo, playing card games and running around the plaza.

Pisac is a lovely and interesting town with nearby Incan ruins and a thriving crafts and produce market. As this was the week of Semana Santa, Holy Week, there were interesting happenings throughout the Cuzco and Sacred Valley area. In Pisac, we saw the construction of a beautiful sacred heart design on the main plaza, made with flower petals and colored amaranth. It took a long time to make and only lasted the evening! Sage liked the market in Pisac and he bought a leather journal. River liked watching the flower design be made. Steve

Pisac is right next to the small town of Taray that was destroyed by floods last month. We saw the damage from the floods all over the valley: mudslides, erosion, etc.

After three days in Pisac, we traveled to Ollantaytambo where Steve had to make lodging arrangments for his students. Ollanta has fabulous ruins. We didn't go to the main ruin site because we will go there with the students, but we hiked up to a granary ruin site next to the town. Sage loved the ruins! River too! We saw fabulous wild flowers. It is the end of the rainy season, and the entire valley is lush and green.

It is the corn harvest time and throughout the valley and small towns we saw the locals harvesting and drying their corn, and shelling their beans. Delicious choclo con queso (corn on the cob with cheese) can be found everywhere.

Now we are in Cuzco. We have been here three nights. We are staying in the same hostel where Steve and I stayed 14 years ago when we traveled all over South America for 9 months. The same lovely family owns the hostel. The hostel is large enough for all of the 37 students who are arriving here. Many have already arrived and are getting acquainted with Cuzco.

We saw several processions, dances and activities here in Cuzco, all part of Semana Santa. Cuzco is a beautiful city, both modern and ancient. Everywhere you turn, there are remnants of ancient Inca stonework existing along modern day cafes, etc. The center of the city has several beautiful plazas and churches. Where we are staying has a beautiful view of the Plaza de Armas from the lovely upstairs terrace.

River likes a dish called lomo saltado as well as ice cream. Sage likes the ice cream, surprise, surprise! All flavors! I love the tamales. We all love going to the central market where there is a startling variety of incredible fruits, vegetables and local dishes.

We are here three more nights, and then back down to the valley with the students to visit many of the Inca ruin sites in and around Pisac and Ollantaytambo again.

River and Sage are now ready for me to be done! So, more later!

Hasta luego!

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Miraflores, Lima.

We are back in Lima for a few days. Our poor white skin couldn't handle any more sun at the beach. It was fun though! River and Sage ended up trying boogie boarding. The waves were pretty strong though... I think they'll have to wait a few more years to really do it.

We're staying at the HitchHiker's hostel in Miraflores. We spent the afternoon strolling around Miraflores, checking out Parque Kennedy, which is the main hang-out zone and enjoying delicious helado (ice cream): limon, maracuya and fresa. Que rico!

River and Sage are getting great Spanish immersion. Sage has mastered: "Tengo hambre", "playa" and "helado" -very important vocabulary!

Tomorrow, we will check out Museo de la Nacion, one of the main museums with replicas of all the major ruin sites of Peru and extensive displays of the major cultural groups and ancient civilizations. It will be a great preparation for Cuzco. On Monday, we fly to Cuzco.

More soon!

Hasta luego!

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Punta Hermosa

Hola, Buenos Dias! Saludos desde Punta Hermosa!

It is a beautiful, sunny morning. This week, we are doing the Spring Break thing, Peruvian style. We left Lima yesterday and headed south to a beach called Punta Hermosa. We are staying on the upper level of a beach condo complex with a balcony overlooking the beach. There is a big surf scene here, and I can see the surfers as I write this blog! I don't expect the entire vacation to be so lujo, but we'll enjoy it for now!

River slept in and is catching up on his Warriors book. Steve and Sage just got back from looking for breakfast. Looks like things don't get going really early around here. Sage is reporting a really good restaurant with orange and papaya juice. Sage says, "I am getting impatient for going to the beach." River wants to announce that yesterday he ate squid and octopus. Steve says it's time for breakfast which means I better stop blogging!

Agenda for today: beach and more beach. Popsicles or ice cream. Seafood Peruvian style which means ceviche. I got up early and meditated to the sound of the ocean and did my asana practice which means my to-do list is pretty much done!

I'll try to post some photos later today!

Adios for now!

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Packing for Peru

We leave for Peru tomorrow evening. Today we will pack make out last minute packing selections and clean the house.